North East India Motorbike Tour from Guwahati to Tawang. Exploring Guwahati, Shillong, Cherrapunji, Kaziranga, Dirang, Tawang and surviving Sela Pass on the bike.

Are you an adventurous rider? Do you wait desperately for an adrenaline rush? Does your vacation define remote and off-beat destination? Then, a ride to Meghalaya, Assam, Arunachal Pradesh should be on your bucket list.

When it comes to a vacation, there are two types of travellers; one, who is too inclined towards the mainstream destinations with leisure transportation and stays and second, who prefer exploring the lesser-known roads on a bike. We are definitely the latter.

My bike tour of North Eastern states of India is a series full of unexpected episodes. And you gonna enjoy each moment of my Guwahati to Tawang bike ride. This was my first time in Assam. The tour was spread through 12 days, starting with a flight from Mumbai to Guwahati, meeting the crew and leaving for Tawang and back. We were a group of riders with a crew leader, backup-vehicle, mechanics specialist and guide. All the hotels were pre-booked, and medical aid and spare parts for bikes were carried.

Are you ready to rumble with us from Assam to Meghalaya to Nagaland to Arunachal Pradesh?

Guwahati, Assam to Shillong, Meghalaya

Guwahati is the biggest metropolitan city and tourist destination in Assam, situated very close to the enormous Brahmaputra River. The first destination from Guwahati to Tawang was Shillong. Our first ride from Guwahati to Shillong started early in the morning as we had to explore two locations in one day.

Shillong is also known as the Scotland of the East in India. The picturesque route of around 100 KMS from Guwahati is breathtaking. It took us around 4 hours to get there even though we took many halts to captivate the beauty of the scene. Seriously, this trip from Guwahati to Tawang is going to stay lifelong in me as the best memories.

The ride is pleasant and smooth especially on a bike like Royal Enfield Himalayan. We left from Guwahati before 9:30 in the morning and rode through Assam to Meghalaya. We checked-in to our rooms in Shillong, freshened up and left for Cherrapunji.

Shillong is a very maintained scenic hill station, where you can spend 1-2 days if you plan a leisure vacation. Since we had a long ride ahead, we didn’t spend much time in Shillong. Some of the famous attractions are Umiam lake, explore the waterfalls and museums here.

Shillong, Meghalaya to Cherrapunji, Meghalaya

Cherrapunji in Meghalaya, also known as Sohra is just over 50 KMS away from Shillong. It has earned itself ‘Guiness book of world record’ for ‘The wettest place on planet earth’ with an average rainfall of over 10,000 mm annually.

Cherrapunji spellbinds you with never-ending green mountains, clouds, foggy and pleasant weather at all times. However, the weather is unpredictable, and clear skies are converted to heavy clouds in no time. Keep your rain gears handy at all times.

A place where rains are in abundance, Cherrapunji is blessed with many beautiful falls like NohKaLikai Falls, Seven Sisters Falls and Dainthlen Falls. Other than the waterfalls, you will also find the very famous Living root bridges in the forests of Sohra.

After riding around Cherrapunji we left to go back to our hotel in Shillong for the night. Next day we had a lengthy ride planned for us.

Shillong, Meghalaya to Dimapur, Nagaland

We started off with Assam, to Meghalaya and our next stop was Nagaland. Our destination for day 3 was Dimapur, and this journey turned out to be the most tiring ride. It was around 300 KMS from Shillong, with a major time spent in off-roading.

Dimapur is the largest city and capital of Nagaland in India. Dimapur takes pride in its archaeological monuments. You can visit the ruins of Kachari kingdom, whose capital was also Dimapur during the 13th century. You will also find ruins, monoliths and carved rocks of temples and baths. There’s a very famous Nagaland Zoological Park which is worth a visit.

Since we had to cover a long distance, we were on the roads at 8 AM. The first few kilometers were through jungles and muddy patches. The roads were slippery, so one could not hurry on such terrains. The view was soothing with small villages and greenery, and the weather was also pleasant.

It took 5 hours to cross 60 KMS, after which we took a lunch break at the closest possible joint. Luckily, we got tarmac roads after a point, but we were still more than halfway away from Dimapur. After another 100 KMS, it got dark and our hotel was still another 150 KMS.

By the time we reached our rooms, it was well after 10 PM and we were starving and exhausted. But we had very little energy to do anything at all. Please do take note, to leave as early as possible at any given point and do not spend too much time sight-seeing on the ride.

Dimapur, Nagaland to Kohima, Nagaland

We didn’t get to spend a lot of time at Dimapur, as we reached late at night, and headed towards Kohima next morning. Since this was a much smaller distance to cover, we took enough rest to survive.

Kohima is the hilly capital of Nagaland, located over 70 KMS from Dimapur. It is one of the only three cities with an established Municipal council along with Dimapur and Mokokchung.

Tourists are attracted to the Kohima War Cemetery. Earlier known as Garrison Hill, it is a memorial in honor of the 1421 officers and soldiers killed during the World War II in the battle of Kohima.

We took a halt at Kohima for a small meal and left for our next destination where we would spend the night, Mokukchung.

Kohima, Nagaland to Mokokchung, Nagaland

Mokokchung is a major district of Nagaland in India at a distance of 145 KMS from Kohima. Some of the popular tourist spots are the District Museum and the Town main park. Unman village, which is regarded to be the oldest village in Nagaland is also settled closed by.

This splendid journey was mostly through mountains and jungles with small dwellings on the way. You will be lost in the breathtaking beauty of the unreal scenery as you move higher above sea level.

This was a relatively easier ride with decent road conditions and we got enough time to rejuvenate ourselves at night and prepare for the next day.

Mokokchung, Nagaland to Kaziranga, Assam

We flagged off from Mokokchung a little earlier than the schedule, because we wanted to touch Unman village before leaving from there. Kaziranga is over 300 KMS away from Mokokchung.

It was a perfect morning ride with smooth curvy roads and a very pleasant climate. The roads are narrow but maintained, given the weather conditions. The locals informed us rains are frequent and unpredictable. All of us were amazed by the greenery on such heights. You could feel the pure air fill your lungs and clear your mind.

The first 50 KMS was well maintained tarmac roads. After Tzurangkong the terrains changed to mud and gravel, and it started raining. I was wearing ankle-length shoes, and these mucky roads reminded me why full-length shoes are necessary. However, the roads kept switching from tarmac to muds to no roads.

It is recommended not to overtake trucks, and ride reasonably at all times. Upon reaching our hotel, few of the riders who reached before sunset, were lucky to enjoy the jeep safari at the Kaziranga National Park. This World Heritage site is famous for reviving the Indian one-horned rhinoceros which were almost extinct a few years back. It’s also known for breeding tigers, elephants, deer and wild water buffalo

Please remember, Kaziranga is closed during monsoons because of heavy rainfall, also, it would be a torturous ride in the rains.

Mokokchung to Kaziranga is a long stretch, so bear in mind to take numerous breaks and do not over-exert. The journey from Kaziranga onwards is when the adventure begins. The roads get rougher, the weather gets rougher and you will feel the cold breeze piercing your skin.

Kaziranga, Assam to Bomdila, Arunachal Pradesh (via Tezpur, Assam)

Bomdila in Arunachal Pradesh, is set at an altitude of over 8000 feet above sea level. It marks the beginning of snow over lush green mountains. The fun starts here.

This small town of Bomdila is approximately 260 KMS from Kaziranga, with scenic ranges of the Himalayas. The road conditions were bearable, with a mix of asphalt and no-road situations. You will also find experienced trekkers with their backpacks in the middle of nowhere. It is known for its Buddhist monasteries and apple farms. You will find never-ending apple orchids stretching along the roads and as far as the eye can see.

Bomdila is made of extreme winters, short summers, and limited but torrential rains. Being on a high-altitude location has its own pros and cons. The best time to visit Bomdila is spread between April and October, with uncertain weather conditions. Landslides are frequent, so pay attention to signages and do not try to

We took a short halt at Tezpur, around 90 KMS from Kaziranga and 150 KMS from Bomdila.

Tezpur is the major commercial and administrative centre in North Assam. It is culturally abundant with many historical ruins. One cannot miss the vast tea farms as Tezpur approaches. Winters here are perfect with their hot cuppas and the best time to visit is from October to the summers in May. The roads will be inaccessible Tezpur onward during the rains.

We left from Kaziranga at 8 AM, entered Bomdila at 7 PM. It was pitch dark, and the only lights on the roads are the vehicles running by. We reached our hotel in Dirang at 9 PM.

Bhalukpong, Arunachal Pradesh

If the ride from Kaziranga to Dirang is too tiring, you can stay the night at Bhalukpong. Bhalukpong is 64 km from Tezpur, is a famous overnight layover for riders and travellers on their way to Tawang. Though, Bomdila and Dirang are better options for a night-stay.

Located on the border of Arunachal Pradesh, it welcomes you with serene views of mountains with the gorgeous Kameng river. You can spot ruins of forts around the town. Other attractions are hot springs, Tipi Orchid Research Centre and the untouched beauty of nature.

Dirang, Arunachal Pradesh

The distance between Kaziranga and Dirang is around 300 KMS. Depending on the road condition the total travel time can be from 9 to 10 hours. Dirang is conveniently located halfway between Tezpur and Tawang, making it an ideal overnight layover for tourists going to Tawang.

Dirang is a small town on the river valley of river Jia Bharali in Arunachal Pradesh. The weather here is quite pleasant most of the year, since it’s comparatively on a lower altitude of 4900 feet. But you still get the chills at night.

They have a number of hotel options at Dirang. Most of the hotels have the basic amenities, as tourists usually check in the late afternoon and leave next morning.

If you get here in the afternoon, you can spend the evening at Dirang market. Even though travellers do not prefer to spend more than a night at Dirang, some of the attractions are the Dirang Dzong and the National Research Centre on Yak.

We saw many waterfalls, as we got closer to Dirang. The roads were tiring. We reached our hotels at 9 PM, absolutely exhausted and the bed was all we needed.

Dirang, Arunachal Pradesh to Tawang, Arunachal Pradesh

Tawang floats at a height of over 11,150 feet above sea level. Approximately 130 KMS from Dirang, this destination was worth it all.

One of the most famous monasteries in North Eastern part of India, Tawang Monastery resides here. It is said to be the largest Buddhist monastery in the world outside of Lhasa, Tibet and is known to be from the 17^th Century. Tawang is also the birthplace of the sixth Dalai Lama, Tsangyang Gyatso, making it a very sacred destination.

It is advisable to confirm if the roads are accessible, before you venture out of Dirang. Also keep an eye on the weather, as you do not want to be stuck on these roads in bad weather.

As we left from Tawang, we just could not get enough of the mighty Himalayas. You could see a long stretch of the snowclad mountains, with clouds hovering over it. It sent chills down our spine. The power it exudes from such a distance. We were freezing here, because of the winds that were travelling from miles away. Can you imagine the potential of nature?

You can easily spend 2-3 nights in Tawang. Explore the local areas, visit the monastery and acclimatize. It is always advised to acclimatize yourself in Guwahati to Tawang route due to the major temperature change.

Sela Pass – Deadliest Pass in India

The Sela Pass or Se La (La means pass) is a high-altitude mountain pass on the way to Tawang. It is at a height of 13,700 feet and it is the only point that connects Tawang with the rest of India.

The land around this pass is covered in snow throughout the year, and slush when the snow melts. You can enjoy the sight of Sela Lake on the way if the weather is clear. The lake is frozen in the winters, and covered by a layer of thin ice during the other seasons.

Because Sela Pass gets heavy snowfall in winters, the roads may be temporarily shut down. This pass is prone to landslides and snowstorms. There’s every possibility you will witness snowfall and delay at the pass because of snow clearing process and low visibility.

  
 
 
 
 
 
 
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Homecoming

Our journey back home from Tawang to Dirang (130 KMS), and from Dirang to Guwahati (310 KMS) took 2 days. We boarded our flight from Guwahati Airport (Lokpriya Gopinath Bordoloi International Airport) to come back to Mumbai with our hearts full.

An adventure seeker should unquestionably take a Guwahati to Tawang Bike Ride. This journey had everything right from forests and snow, land and water, warmth and cold. We could see the cultural difference as we entered each state, and that was one of the most special experience on this trip.

Motorbike rides give me a sense of freedom, and I feel incredibly lucky to have travelled in the beautiful lands on India. If you have been to any of these states, let us know how your journey was, we are all ears. Tell us about your thoughts on our Guwahati to Tawang bike ride.

Live your life. Live your dream.